Arkuh Bernard Tettey
THE FIRST TRIP
Emails From Africa
by Melody MacDuffee
These emails were written during my stays in Africa. They reflect my perceptions at the time. I have learned to see many things differently since with, I hope, a richer understanding of what can be attributed to cultural differences and what must be understood as personal strengths and failings. The learning curve is long, and it's not over yet. But this is how things seemed to me as they were happening.
Arrival in Africa
November 7, 2007
Hello Everyone.
I'm here and safe. It was very hard at first, with jet lag fogging everything up and medicinal side effects making me paranoid and weird. But all is now wonderful and amazing. We have been presented to the queen mothers, and have received their blessing on our project. We will be receiving our African names in a formal naming ceremony on Sunday. We will then belong to Manye Mamiyu, the queen mother -- she will be our mother. We're very excited about that.
We've met about twenty of the beadmakers, and will be starting our classes tomorrow. I so hope I am able to help. My three partners seem to be in good agreement with us about how the project should be approached and carried through -- with complete honesty at all times and trust in each other. All of the parents have advised that this is the way for us to be. It's all very good.
Our host family has been wonderful to us. Their home is comfortable and welcoming. We have settled in now, and are very happy and excited to be here.
My thanks to everyone who helped get me here. Words can't express the experience we're having already.
With love and gratitude,
Melody
Getting Acquainted
November 15, 2007
Hello All,
Sorry about the long delay in communicating. The internet cafes here leave something (almost everything?) to be desired.
That said, here's the short version. If I live to be a thousand years old, nothing is ever, ever likely to be as magical and fulfilling as this trip has already been.
The classes are going extremely well -- the level of intelligence and talent among the students is astounding. You show them something they've never even seen examples of until right then and the next thing you know they are inventing whole new designs and even innovating technically. It has been a lesson in "It takes a village to teach a class." Everyone helps, from Megan and my partners in the project to the students helping each other. It's wonderful to see.
My partners are hard-working and seem to be very dedicated. We are still working through a few cultural differences, but we seem to be in perfect agreement about the nature of the project itself, the directions we should take in furthering it, etc. My youngest partner has become my personal assistant in class, teaching others the things he has learned just by watching me once. We plan to let him take over the teaching and monitoring of the producers once I have gone. He is only nineteen.
Bernard is one of the nicest and most gallant young men I have ever met. Nothing is too good for us. We aren't allowed to do our own laundry or clean our own sandals or even carry our own water from the well. It has made us extremely uncomfortable at times, but he will hear no arguments. I suppose maybe he feels that this is what he has to give us, just as we have brought some things to them. I don't know. Maybe there are traditions here that I'm unaware of.
My oldest partner is energetic, driven and assertive, yet receptive to suggestions. His whole family has been wonderful to us. It has been an extremely rare opportunity to see this part of the world from the inside, in so far as it is ever possible for outsiders to do so. I am very grateful.
I would trust, and have already trusted, these young men with my life. We have walked through mazes of alleys in darkness so thick we couldn't see our hands before our faces, with them holding our hands or arms to steady us. We have faced down angry bead makers who were sure that I represented some non-governmental organization with deep pockets, and that I was, or we were, withholding funds meant for them. Within three days of arriving here, I felt perfectly comfortable handing my heavy bag over to Bernard to carry for me, complete with passport, debit card and cash. Not even a twinge of doubt.
The heat is extreme. I go everywhere armed with a liter of water, several handkerchiefs to wipe away the sweat, and a straw fan. The food is tasty but very oily, an odd choice for such a hot climate, it seems. But I eat it. Running water was a dream that did not come true -- the taps are supposed to run three days a week, but so far that hasn't happened. Showers are a bucket of cold well water dumped over the head, which works out surprisingly well. I've never been happier in my life.
We had our naming ceremony last Sunday, and much to our surprise, we were made queen mothers in recognition of the work we are doing here. I am now Manye (Queen) Dede Adanki Banahene III, and sometimes people greet me as Manye in the royal neighborhood. Megan is Manye to the Youth Dede Tsaako Banahene II. We are literally members of the royal family now, and have been allowed to enter places that no one goes unless they are related. We were introduced to the ancestral spirits and accepted by them, and we were marched around the district after the ceremony by way of introduction to the people. This weekend we will go to the festival with Manye Mamiyu (our mother), and we will dance.
I'd better sign off. These computers crash often. My thanks to everyone who helped to get me here. I've told stories here of all the generosity I experienced before I came, and my partners are grateful to all of you.
With love and gratitude to all of you,
Melody
Emails From Africa
by Melody MacDuffee
These emails were written during my stays in Africa. They reflect my perceptions at the time. I have learned to see many things differently since with, I hope, a richer understanding of what can be attributed to cultural differences and what must be understood as personal strengths and failings. The learning curve is long, and it's not over yet. But this is how things seemed to me as they were happening.
Arrival in Africa
November 7, 2007
Hello Everyone.
I'm here and safe. It was very hard at first, with jet lag fogging everything up and medicinal side effects making me paranoid and weird. But all is now wonderful and amazing. We have been presented to the queen mothers, and have received their blessing on our project. We will be receiving our African names in a formal naming ceremony on Sunday. We will then belong to Manye Mamiyu, the queen mother -- she will be our mother. We're very excited about that.
We've met about twenty of the beadmakers, and will be starting our classes tomorrow. I so hope I am able to help. My three partners seem to be in good agreement with us about how the project should be approached and carried through -- with complete honesty at all times and trust in each other. All of the parents have advised that this is the way for us to be. It's all very good.
Our host family has been wonderful to us. Their home is comfortable and welcoming. We have settled in now, and are very happy and excited to be here.
My thanks to everyone who helped get me here. Words can't express the experience we're having already.
With love and gratitude,
Melody
Getting Acquainted
November 15, 2007
Hello All,
Sorry about the long delay in communicating. The internet cafes here leave something (almost everything?) to be desired.
That said, here's the short version. If I live to be a thousand years old, nothing is ever, ever likely to be as magical and fulfilling as this trip has already been.
The classes are going extremely well -- the level of intelligence and talent among the students is astounding. You show them something they've never even seen examples of until right then and the next thing you know they are inventing whole new designs and even innovating technically. It has been a lesson in "It takes a village to teach a class." Everyone helps, from Megan and my partners in the project to the students helping each other. It's wonderful to see.
My partners are hard-working and seem to be very dedicated. We are still working through a few cultural differences, but we seem to be in perfect agreement about the nature of the project itself, the directions we should take in furthering it, etc. My youngest partner has become my personal assistant in class, teaching others the things he has learned just by watching me once. We plan to let him take over the teaching and monitoring of the producers once I have gone. He is only nineteen.
Bernard is one of the nicest and most gallant young men I have ever met. Nothing is too good for us. We aren't allowed to do our own laundry or clean our own sandals or even carry our own water from the well. It has made us extremely uncomfortable at times, but he will hear no arguments. I suppose maybe he feels that this is what he has to give us, just as we have brought some things to them. I don't know. Maybe there are traditions here that I'm unaware of.
My oldest partner is energetic, driven and assertive, yet receptive to suggestions. His whole family has been wonderful to us. It has been an extremely rare opportunity to see this part of the world from the inside, in so far as it is ever possible for outsiders to do so. I am very grateful.
I would trust, and have already trusted, these young men with my life. We have walked through mazes of alleys in darkness so thick we couldn't see our hands before our faces, with them holding our hands or arms to steady us. We have faced down angry bead makers who were sure that I represented some non-governmental organization with deep pockets, and that I was, or we were, withholding funds meant for them. Within three days of arriving here, I felt perfectly comfortable handing my heavy bag over to Bernard to carry for me, complete with passport, debit card and cash. Not even a twinge of doubt.
The heat is extreme. I go everywhere armed with a liter of water, several handkerchiefs to wipe away the sweat, and a straw fan. The food is tasty but very oily, an odd choice for such a hot climate, it seems. But I eat it. Running water was a dream that did not come true -- the taps are supposed to run three days a week, but so far that hasn't happened. Showers are a bucket of cold well water dumped over the head, which works out surprisingly well. I've never been happier in my life.
We had our naming ceremony last Sunday, and much to our surprise, we were made queen mothers in recognition of the work we are doing here. I am now Manye (Queen) Dede Adanki Banahene III, and sometimes people greet me as Manye in the royal neighborhood. Megan is Manye to the Youth Dede Tsaako Banahene II. We are literally members of the royal family now, and have been allowed to enter places that no one goes unless they are related. We were introduced to the ancestral spirits and accepted by them, and we were marched around the district after the ceremony by way of introduction to the people. This weekend we will go to the festival with Manye Mamiyu (our mother), and we will dance.
I'd better sign off. These computers crash often. My thanks to everyone who helped to get me here. I've told stories here of all the generosity I experienced before I came, and my partners are grateful to all of you.
With love and gratitude to all of you,
Melody
Learning To Make Do
November 20, 2007
Hello Everyone,
This one will have to be a bit short--the lights are flickering in this internet cafe, so I'm afraid my computer might crash.
Things are still going well. We're becoming more focused in our goals, with a firmer idea of how to proceed and who will do what as we work towards gaining not-for-profit status. Classes are still great--the best was this morning, when we had one focused on sustainability. During class, we managed to solve the last problem we were struggling with--making our own crimp beads. We, as a class, figured it out. It was a wonderful, triumphant moment.
I taught all afternoon under a tin roof, completely drenched with sweat. I loved it. These new students, like the others, were remarkably creative. We still have a few challenges ahead. It's difficult to make the students understand that the time they are spending is an investment in the future. They keep veering back towards believing that we should be buying the projects they are making in class. I wish we could, but this would not be empowerment, and anyway we don't have the money. We're working hard to make them trust us and see the value of the ongoing income benefits, rather than focusing on the losses of time and materials now. But it's difficult when you are struggling just to put food on the table. Now is paramount. They are used to having to let tomorrow take care of itself.
More soon. The lights are blinking again.
Love and thanks to all,
Melody
November 20, 2007
Hello Everyone,
This one will have to be a bit short--the lights are flickering in this internet cafe, so I'm afraid my computer might crash.
Things are still going well. We're becoming more focused in our goals, with a firmer idea of how to proceed and who will do what as we work towards gaining not-for-profit status. Classes are still great--the best was this morning, when we had one focused on sustainability. During class, we managed to solve the last problem we were struggling with--making our own crimp beads. We, as a class, figured it out. It was a wonderful, triumphant moment.
I taught all afternoon under a tin roof, completely drenched with sweat. I loved it. These new students, like the others, were remarkably creative. We still have a few challenges ahead. It's difficult to make the students understand that the time they are spending is an investment in the future. They keep veering back towards believing that we should be buying the projects they are making in class. I wish we could, but this would not be empowerment, and anyway we don't have the money. We're working hard to make them trust us and see the value of the ongoing income benefits, rather than focusing on the losses of time and materials now. But it's difficult when you are struggling just to put food on the table. Now is paramount. They are used to having to let tomorrow take care of itself.
More soon. The lights are blinking again.
Love and thanks to all,
Melody
This Is Africa
November 24, 2007
Hello Everyone,
This continues to be the most fascinating experience of my life.
We spend much of our time trying to unravel the threads of local politics, which have kept some of the bead makers suspicious of our motives and resources. The proliferation of NGOs in Africa, many of them, apparently, corrupt, has infiltrated the thinking of many of the people here, so that when someone like me comes, they assume they will be receiving money. When it isn't forthcoming, they assume we are pocketing it ourselves or giving it to our friends. It is very difficult to establish trust and to make the students understand the long term benefits of their current investment of beads and time off from work.
But we now have a core group of extremely talented students, only one of whom still seems to be having trouble accepting the concept. We think he'll come around. One of the best-established bead makers, Mr. Israel, has been very helpful in gradually persuading the others to believe in what we are trying to do. He tells them, "Manna doesn't fall from heaven often. Be grateful for it when it does." How strange to be thought of as someone bringing manna!
Despite the complications, the people here are lovely, warm and friendly. The whole enterprise has been an exercise in trust from the beginning anyway, for me as much as for anyone. I had to learn to trust my partners' intentions enough to make the trip; my friends needed convincing that the whole thing wasn't just some kind of a scam; my partners had to convince their doubting parents (they thought we might be smugglers!) to believe in us and welcome us into their homes; and now the bead makers are having to learn to trust our motives. This was a wrinkle we weren't expecting. But it must be very difficult for them when their trust has been betrayed so many times. We are simply a phenomenon that is outside of their experience.
None of this has mitigated the pleasure I've taken in this adventure. It's simply the reality here. We hear the phrase "This is Africa" over and over, accompanied by a resigned shrug. I didn't come here to be sheltered from that reality, but to embrace it and try to understand it. And there are many things and customs here that are better in many ways than those at home. For example, while the slow and unpredictable "Africa time" is often frustrating to our Western minds, and while it doesn't mesh terribly well with doing business internationally, the slower pace -- the attitude that what doesn't get done today will get done some other time (not necessarily tomorrow) -- is certainly healthier, less stressful.
We had our first official business meeting last night, during which we began mapping out a business plan. But we are still casting about for a good name, something that captures a sense of Africa and a sense of what the project is about, yet something that is, at the same time, musical or catchy. If any of you have any good ideas, they would be very welcome.
Thanks again to all of you.
Mel
November 24, 2007
Hello Everyone,
This continues to be the most fascinating experience of my life.
We spend much of our time trying to unravel the threads of local politics, which have kept some of the bead makers suspicious of our motives and resources. The proliferation of NGOs in Africa, many of them, apparently, corrupt, has infiltrated the thinking of many of the people here, so that when someone like me comes, they assume they will be receiving money. When it isn't forthcoming, they assume we are pocketing it ourselves or giving it to our friends. It is very difficult to establish trust and to make the students understand the long term benefits of their current investment of beads and time off from work.
But we now have a core group of extremely talented students, only one of whom still seems to be having trouble accepting the concept. We think he'll come around. One of the best-established bead makers, Mr. Israel, has been very helpful in gradually persuading the others to believe in what we are trying to do. He tells them, "Manna doesn't fall from heaven often. Be grateful for it when it does." How strange to be thought of as someone bringing manna!
Despite the complications, the people here are lovely, warm and friendly. The whole enterprise has been an exercise in trust from the beginning anyway, for me as much as for anyone. I had to learn to trust my partners' intentions enough to make the trip; my friends needed convincing that the whole thing wasn't just some kind of a scam; my partners had to convince their doubting parents (they thought we might be smugglers!) to believe in us and welcome us into their homes; and now the bead makers are having to learn to trust our motives. This was a wrinkle we weren't expecting. But it must be very difficult for them when their trust has been betrayed so many times. We are simply a phenomenon that is outside of their experience.
None of this has mitigated the pleasure I've taken in this adventure. It's simply the reality here. We hear the phrase "This is Africa" over and over, accompanied by a resigned shrug. I didn't come here to be sheltered from that reality, but to embrace it and try to understand it. And there are many things and customs here that are better in many ways than those at home. For example, while the slow and unpredictable "Africa time" is often frustrating to our Western minds, and while it doesn't mesh terribly well with doing business internationally, the slower pace -- the attitude that what doesn't get done today will get done some other time (not necessarily tomorrow) -- is certainly healthier, less stressful.
We had our first official business meeting last night, during which we began mapping out a business plan. But we are still casting about for a good name, something that captures a sense of Africa and a sense of what the project is about, yet something that is, at the same time, musical or catchy. If any of you have any good ideas, they would be very welcome.
Thanks again to all of you.
Mel
Winding Down
November 29, 2007
Hello Everyone,
The Harmattan started blowing here a few days ago, bringing its dusty, dry heat down from the Sahara and making the days, if possible, even hotter. The four or five degree difference feels huge, even to the local people. The pace of life has slowed even further. Some kinds of effort just don't seem worth it.
But we're carrying on. It's our last week, and some things will be much, much harder to accomplish once Megan and I have left. Last night we began "buying" the designs that will be in the first American catalog. I put "buying" in quotes because, at this point, we have very little money left and can pay very little for them, and then only for the best of the pieces the bead makers designed and made in class. After minor tweaking for consistency of workmanship and materials (many of them were made early on, before we had found locally-available substitutes for most of the products), we will begin marketing the products in the U.S. When an item sells, the designers will be paid for their beads and for their labor if they choose to produce the item themselves. If they prefer to let someone else produce the items, we will have a small work force waiting in the wings. Either way, the designers will receive a royalty payment for every item that sells for allowing us to use their designs. It was the only way that we could come up with that the bead makers could get some money now (which was crucial in terms of gaining their confidence, but difficult with our current, almost non-existent budget); some money when an order is placed; and some long-range return on the investment of time and creativity they have made during this past month. Over time, we hope the royalty system will help them to understand the value of investing in the future. It will be a completely new experience for most of them to get money for doing nothing whatsoever right now. They are used to living completely hand-to-mouth.
Tomorrow we will have our last class. We'll be working on perfecting our workmanship, making sure that each worker knows the standard of quality that will be expected of him or her. No doubt there will still be a few rough edges -- with a few exceptions, the general attitude is that pretty close is good enough.
I'm starting to feel a good deal of wistfulness at the prospect of leaving next Monday. It will be hard to go. Still, I'm looking forward to seeing friends, my family and my faithful companion dog, Hannah. In many ways, it will feel very good to be home -- I can hardly wait to flush my first toilet without having to fill the tank with well water first! But I'm not looking forward to the frenzy of activity that awaits me almost immediately upon my return. Somehow, I'm going to have to find a way to keep a little bit of my new "Africa time" sensibility. Some things really can be put off until tomorrow if the alternative is too much stress and too little time for just being with friends and enjoying life. It's a good lesson to have learned.
This will probably be my last email before I leave, but I'll be in touch once I get back. Watch for a follow-up article in the Mobile Register at some point. It will, I hope, feature some of the wonderful photos Megan and Bernard have been taking, as well as more details about the trip.
As always, thanks to everyone who contributed to this project. This phase has been a great success, and I have increasing confidence that things will continue to progress in a good direction.
Melody
November 29, 2007
Hello Everyone,
The Harmattan started blowing here a few days ago, bringing its dusty, dry heat down from the Sahara and making the days, if possible, even hotter. The four or five degree difference feels huge, even to the local people. The pace of life has slowed even further. Some kinds of effort just don't seem worth it.
But we're carrying on. It's our last week, and some things will be much, much harder to accomplish once Megan and I have left. Last night we began "buying" the designs that will be in the first American catalog. I put "buying" in quotes because, at this point, we have very little money left and can pay very little for them, and then only for the best of the pieces the bead makers designed and made in class. After minor tweaking for consistency of workmanship and materials (many of them were made early on, before we had found locally-available substitutes for most of the products), we will begin marketing the products in the U.S. When an item sells, the designers will be paid for their beads and for their labor if they choose to produce the item themselves. If they prefer to let someone else produce the items, we will have a small work force waiting in the wings. Either way, the designers will receive a royalty payment for every item that sells for allowing us to use their designs. It was the only way that we could come up with that the bead makers could get some money now (which was crucial in terms of gaining their confidence, but difficult with our current, almost non-existent budget); some money when an order is placed; and some long-range return on the investment of time and creativity they have made during this past month. Over time, we hope the royalty system will help them to understand the value of investing in the future. It will be a completely new experience for most of them to get money for doing nothing whatsoever right now. They are used to living completely hand-to-mouth.
Tomorrow we will have our last class. We'll be working on perfecting our workmanship, making sure that each worker knows the standard of quality that will be expected of him or her. No doubt there will still be a few rough edges -- with a few exceptions, the general attitude is that pretty close is good enough.
I'm starting to feel a good deal of wistfulness at the prospect of leaving next Monday. It will be hard to go. Still, I'm looking forward to seeing friends, my family and my faithful companion dog, Hannah. In many ways, it will feel very good to be home -- I can hardly wait to flush my first toilet without having to fill the tank with well water first! But I'm not looking forward to the frenzy of activity that awaits me almost immediately upon my return. Somehow, I'm going to have to find a way to keep a little bit of my new "Africa time" sensibility. Some things really can be put off until tomorrow if the alternative is too much stress and too little time for just being with friends and enjoying life. It's a good lesson to have learned.
This will probably be my last email before I leave, but I'll be in touch once I get back. Watch for a follow-up article in the Mobile Register at some point. It will, I hope, feature some of the wonderful photos Megan and Bernard have been taking, as well as more details about the trip.
As always, thanks to everyone who contributed to this project. This phase has been a great success, and I have increasing confidence that things will continue to progress in a good direction.
Melody